Organic and green may be the buzzwords not they are not a reason to open a restaurant.
Gusto Organics on 6th Avenue started out promising. Light and airy but not too acoustically obnoxious. Comfortable and beautiful wood chairs and tables -- reclaimed perhaps?
Our host recommended the communal table for a party of 4 while we looked a sea of 4-tops (odd). I spied a long cement ledge with barstools facing a wall. That's not my idea of a communal table, particularly one conducive to face-to-face conversation. I declined. He reluctantly plopped us down one table shy of the front door.
The menu does not have a distinct personality, more so a militant manifesto -- Organic! Natural! Green! Bread, tomatoes and cheese are prominent but with no strong inclination toward cuisine, herb or spice.
The chicken on the sandwich was well-seasoned and moist. The brown bread was uninspired but the arugula salad was fresh.
The empanadas were small but very flavorful. It would have been nice to serve them with argugla salad, too.
The egg sandwich with cheese, tomato and turkey was served on a flaky, brioche-type bun.
The spinach crepe with egg, cheese, tomato and turkey (see a theme here?) was a hit. The crepe was robust and perfectly executed. The spinach was evident.
The waitstaff was woefully ill-informed. I asked if they used deli style turkey. The waiter said no. What arrived was deli style turkey. No explanation; no apology.
Tammy (my guest) asked what dressings were available for the chicken sandwich. The waiter told us mayo was her only option because "Organic is limited in taste".
Wow. Wonder if the owner thinks that too!
By the time we asked for our check, the waiter was in the weeds, poking his head above the Sargasso Sea of tables just long enough to avoid being flagged down. Given that we added four $4-5 drinks to go, the bill of $86 seemed much too steep for a 6th Avenue Village joint for lunch.
I will not go back. Too many service missteps, misinformation and a pathetically limited menu. And then we wonder why Joe & Mary Middle America visiting from Des Moines is unimpressed or, worse, disgusted by "organic" "green" "natural" restaurants.
Makes me sad. And mad.
Monday, May 19, 2008
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