
With glee I returned to Essaouira, a sleepy beach town about 3 hours west of Marrakech, 2 hours north of Agadir. With the promise of learning fish dishes from a local shoe merchant's mother, I settled into a routine for the week in a small apartment with a terrace inside the medina.
The shoe merchant, Younnis, and his manager, Abdellah, took me to their favorite places for lunch.
My first lunch with them was chicken tagine with diced onion and preserved lemon topped with fries. Yum.
The next day, the woman at the food stall showed me how to make these yummy fried sardines.

sardines
garlic, minced
cumin
tahmera (orange colorant)
parsley, minced
tumeric
vinegar
harkom (yellow colorant)
flour and salt

Clean and scale the sardines. Debone what you can and lay them flat. Wash thoroughly and pat dry. Make the charmoula by combining the spices, vinegar and parsley until the consistency of thick yogurt. Making a sardine sandwich, spread the charmoula between two flat sardines. Lightly flour and set to fry. Gently turn the sardines over to brown on each side. Serve hot.
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